NON- CONFRONTATIONAL DOMINANCE PROGRAM (or "no free lunch")

All animals have rules. Dogs are no different. People can’t speed through stop signs and dogs can’t bolt out the front door and run down the street. In this program, all the dog must do is place its rear on the ground and defer to its owner. Saying ‘please’ is a simple but powerful behavior.

This program was specifically designed for both dog and owner. It contains information from the books Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals by Dr. Karen L. Overall, Dogs Behaving Badly by Dr. Nicholas Dodman as well as Cinnamon Clark's methods.

Starting immediately, your dog must earn everything it wants for the rest of it’s life. It does this by quietly sitting and staying for a few minutes (saying please). This includes the following:

1)   Avoid confrontation. If your dog is aggressive to you, it is vital for the success of the program that you avoid confrontation. If the dog is continually put into situations in which it feels the need to defend itself, aggression becomes a learned behavior.

Example: If your dog attempts to guard a rawhide chew and you back away, what does the dog learn? It’s learned that aggression works. If it wants you to back off, all it has to do is growl. -- If your dog guards these things, simply remove them from its diet all together.

2) Have specific feeding times. Alpha isn’t who screams the loudest, it’s who holds the resources. If your dog has food in its bowl all the time, it feels in control. You must be the one to offer food (the bowl coming from your hand) when and only when the dog sits.

Example: If you ask for a sit and the dog doesn’t comply, you can give a ‘no-reward mark’ and walk away. The dog must wait for the next schedules feeding time for another chance. (A no-reward mark is not a command. It is a word that lets your dog know it’s chosen the wrong option and the human is leaving the area. I use, “Too bad”.)

3) Ignore controlling behavior. Example: If your dog comes up while you are on the couch and climbs into your lap wanting attention, who is the king and who is the throne? If this happens, simply stand up to get the dog off of you and then ask for a sit (dog needs to be on the floor at this point!). If the dog sits, you can pet it. Now you have just controlled the situation, not the dog.

4) Praise needs to be earned. Over praising a dog makes the praise uneventful. It is not appreciated. If you control and ration all praise and attention, your dog views you as more authoritative. -- By spoiling a dog, you do it no favors.

Example: If your dog knows how to sit on command, only praise when it gives you an exceptionally fast sit or a perfectly square sit, etc. 

5) Toys are a privilege that must be earned. The dog has access to only one toy at a time. You control the use of toys and the time spent playing with them.

Example: If your dog has a toy and is insisting that you play (and you don’t want to) give your no-reward mark and leave the yard or room and return after a few minutes. Now call the dog to you and ask for a sit. When the dog sits you can begin play. The dog is only allowed to play with you when invite it to play. Give a command for playtime such as, “Let’s play!”. Be sure to have a command that ends play as well. (“That’s all” or “All done!” are good ones.) This gives your dog guidelines to follow. If your dog persists with play after you have requested the game to end, again give the no-reward mark and leave the area and do not interact with the dog for a few minutes.  

6) No high places. The dog should not be allowed to get on the bed or couch unless you ask. High places are a way dominant dogs gain control. Dogs (like people and other mammals) feel more authoritative when on a higher level.

7) Do not cater to demanding behavior. If you dog is barking in your face for attention, give the no-reward mark and walk away. After a few minutes of silence from the dog, ask it to come to you and sit. Then you can give attention.

8)  Watch for subtle, pushy and defiant behavior. Expect mistakes on your part and your dog’s. No one is perfect.

9) Freedom is to be earned.

Example: If your dog refuses to sit for being let out, the dog will not be able to run loose in the yard. It will have to go out on leash (with you holding the other end!) to relieve itself. 

10) Praise your dog! Remember, fair is fair and your dog can have as much love and attention as it earns. 

This way of interacting with your dog isn’t cruel nor is it too much for you to ask. This is all about mutual respect. Never ask your dog to do something you wouldn’t do. You have to work, pay taxes and drive the speed limit and your dog needs rules as well. If you give a human child everything for free, you’re setting them up for failure. They won’t learn valuable lessons needed for interacting with their world. Nothing in life is free. Children feel loved and safe when rules and structure are given to them. Dogs are no different. Each time you want to spoil your dog, think about their mental well being first. Instant gratification does not equal a confident and happy individual. Work and a true purpose in life is what it’s all about. If they feel needed and useful, they feel confident and content and isn‘t that what we all want out of life?   

Cinimon Clark
Obedience instructor TurnaroundTraining
1-866 LUV A BULL
Copyright 2003

1) Teach the kids to "train" with the puppy ASAP. Even a very young child, with minimal english can say "sit" and give a treat.

2) Practice having the puppy "sit" and wait (even if it is for only a few seconds) at any door, including a crate door (and DO crate train), then let the child "invite" the puppy in or out, with an "O.K." or whatever command you use. The puppy must "wait" for permission from the child.

3) Do NOT allow the puppy to jump on, scratch, bite or chase (ankle nip) children. Do not allow the puppy to "chase" scooters, bikes, skateboards or rollerblades either.

4) Be extremely cautious about granting couch or bed privileges with kids ( I wouldn't ), especially with a dog you do not know VERY, VERY, well. If you choose to do so, first teach an "up" AND an "off", on any elevated puppy height surface. After you have taught the behavior, again, have the kids practice those commands.

5) Teach a "give" or "out" command for anything. Teach that, and make absolutely certain it is reinforced with every child. Do not allow kids (and believe me, they'll try) to feed the puppy from the table, or harass them for unearned food, without first requiring a simple obedience (like sit) behavior from the dog.

6) Actively involve the kids, let them know you really need their help as "training partners" to teach your puppy to be a good dog. Solicit their ideas, and most importantly, supervise and control ALL interactions. Indoors and outside.

7) Do not teach (allow) your puppy to do any thing that you would NOT want an adult 65 lb dog doing. Begin with the end in mind. Use positve training methods, and teach the kids how to safely have fun with a dog. It won't just happen, and "Lassie" is, IMO, one of the most destructive fantasies ever marketed by the media.

8) Educate yourself, read, research, and train. Then share what you have learned with the kids. We can't give to others what we don't ourselves have. Learn to "read" your dog's temperament and personality, and safely manage their environment accordingly. Keep it simple, clear, and consistent. Never "assume" anything regarding your dog's behavior in a new or different situation (including people). Always be alert to possible warning signs, or possible behavior changes from your dog.

I have 9 kids of my own, and have had many adult Pit Bull fosters in and out of here, plus my resident Pit Bulls (3). My house is about as busy and chaotic as they come. I have never had a kid bitten by a Pit Bull.

Michele Gardner
Dog Trainer
Pit Bull Owner and Rescuer
Mother of 9 Children

TEACHING YOUR DOG TO WALK ON A LOOSE LEASH

Written by the Denver Dumb Friends League Behavior Department.
Copyright owned by the Denver Dumb Friends league

DEFINITION: "Walk by my side on a loose leash."

PRACTICAL USES: More fun and relaxed than the stricter HEEL, this is a useful word to use when you are giving your dog permission to sniff, explore, and relieve himself... as long as he stays with you and doesn't put tension on the leash.

HOW TO TEACH: In this method of teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash, your dog has a job. He must keep slack in the leash. AS SOON AS he puts tension on the leash, turn 180 degrees from the direction he is pulling and walk briskly in the new direction, using the command "with me". When he turns to follow you, praise him ("good with me") and give him a treat. As long as he keeps slack in the leash, praise him. As soon as he begins to pull, turn and go again.

COMMENTS: Timing is everything with this command. You must turn and go as soon as your dog begins to pull. DO NOT allow him to pull you for several steps before you turn and go. Walking quickly, with lots of jolly talk, will help focus the dog's attention.

This is not the more formal "heel". The idea is to have the dog walk happily under control, without pulling, so that you are both comfortable. HEEL means walking directly beside you, watching you, and should be used in crowds, when crossing streets, etc.

It may take some time to teach this command, especially if your dog has been pulling you around on the leash for some time. Be patient and persistent.

In order to be able to walk your dog while you continue to work on this command, we recommend a head halter. The head halter will prevent your dog from pulling on the leash, but will not teach him to walk on a loose leash when he is not wearing it. Therefore we recommend you use it in conjunction with this training method. ALWAYS use a flat buckle collar when you practice this method. Jerking or yanking on the head halter may cause injury to your dog.
When your dog is walking on a loose leash, make sure you are not raising your hand and taking up the slack he has created. The loose leash (along with praise and treats) is, in itself, a reward for not pulling.

DESENSITIZATION

A process to help dogs get over their fears and anxieties. With proper desensitization the anxiety producing object loses its power.

This can help if your dog reacts to cars, noises, people, other dogs or animals, or anything your dog may be uncomfortable with. I'll refer to the above as 'Scary Object".

You have to start working this at your dog's comfort distance. This could be 50ft away, 100ft away, or even more from the Scary Object. You have to be able to get his attention on you. If you cannot get his attention, you are too close from the Scary Object.

You will want to use very high-value food treats (liverwurst, roast beef, teriyaki chicken). Something very delicious, something your dog doesn't get all the time. Save these special treats just for your desensitization training.

As soon as Scary Object is in view start feeding your dog the delicious treats. Little pieces just keep feeding and feeding do not stop feeding until Scary Object is out of view. It's very helpful if you can set up the viewing and the distance from scary object.

You will want to start with only a few minutes, and keep the exposure to the Scary Object very brief. Today you see scary object for 1 minute, tomorrow 2 min., etc. You'll build up time of exposure as you go along. Remember to feed while Scary Object is in view and stop as soon as Scary Object is not in view.

After your few minutes, turn around and go in another direction away from Scary Object.

Keep doing the above and always work at your dogs comfort distance. Always look for opportunities to use the desensitization process. Keep the viewing a short duration.

Next you will start reducing the distance to the Scary Object. Instead of being 100ft away, try only 90ft away. Never rush !! You always want to be able to maintain your dogs attention, if you can't keep his attention then you are moving to fast. It's harder in the beginning but if taken slowly, things will move faster towards the end. It can take months to desensitize but is well worth it when you reach the end.

Eventually, what you're hoping to happen is for your dog to see the Scary Object and turn to you automatically. The Scary Object becomes the dogs cue to look at you "Hey, I see a dog over there, I look at my owner, I get a treat!" This is a huge breakthrough.

You can help this process along by:

1) Being relaxed. Any anxiety or nervousness you feel will run right down the leash to your dog.

2) Be Alert and Aware so that YOU notice the scary object before your dog does.

3) When scary object is in view SMILE at your dog and feed delicious treats.

4) Feed only when Scary Object is in view.

5) Turn and walk away in a different direction when dog is agitated or exercise is over.

6) ALWAYS set your dog up to succeed. This means being prepared and keeping the distance at the dogs comfort level.

Eventually you will be able to move in closer and closer to the scary object and extend the amount of time spent in the vicinity of the scary object.

Written by Cynthia Castillo

ADDITIONAL INFO: PBRC training & Behavior Links